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DUDLEY IN UMBRIA

Chef Dudley Newbery offers a taste of Italy. In the company of Wendy and Alvaro Tardioli who live on the Gower, Dudley travels to Umbria to meet their Italian family. This colourful portrait is not simply a programme about food, but family values, friendship - and a way of life.

TRUFFLES

  • Truffles (Tartufi) are the treasures of Umbria and are revered throughout the region and beyond. There are several types of truffle:
    The Black Truffle: this is the most prevalent variety of truffle, which matures from November to March. The skin is dark or pure black whilst the flesh is usually of a black/violet colour and its size can vary from something akin to a walnut to that of an orange or apple. Black truffles should be warmed slightly prior to serving and are excellent with pasta or as an hors d’oeuvre. Additionally, the fragrance gives a wonderful boost to sauces, terrines and when used as a garnish.
    The White Truffle: this most rare and sought after of all truffles reaches maturity from October to December but can be found in January in areas sheltered from harsh wintry weather. The white truffle has a very distinctive and intense perfume and it is best served raw without any need for sauces or condiments. Its size varies (similar to the black truffle) and the colour of the flesh ranges from hazel to dark brown. The white truffle is traditionally used with salads, raw meats, buttered eggs, fondues and fresh tagliatelle.
    The ‘Scorzone’ (aka the summer truffle): unlike its more illustrious cousins, this truffle is mainly available during the milder and warmer months of the year. This is regarded as a ‘minor’ truffle because of its abundance and, unlike the white and black varieties, is best consumed after processing. The Scorzone is best used for truffle-related products such as oils, pasta, butter, creams, pâté, cheeses and liqueurs.


  • The harvesting and production of truffles have a massive influence on the majority of Umbria’s cooking and commerce. Nearly 80% of Italy’s truffle production is prepared, packed and traded in Umbria and there are even annual truffle exhibitions held between the months of October and March, which is the time of year when the most prized truffles are commonly in season.


  • The black truffle is commonly associated with the town of Norcia and it’s said that it is very hard to find someone who would readily reveal the locations of where they grow. Local families have maintained these jealously guarded secrets for many generations and each year they hold a truffle ‘hunt’ in order to yield as many of these delights as possible!


  • What is a truffle? Truffles are a species of fungus that grow underground and, in Europe alone, there are more than thirty types and all have a certain degree of gastronomic value. The truffle is formed in limestone or limestone clay and then, since it cannot create its own organic substance, it becomes symbiotic with tree roots for its life and growth.


  • The tree, therefore, is responsible for the truffle’s characteristics. For example, if the truffle grows on a tree with a fairly short life span it is usually considered to be of scant value. However, if, on the other hand, the truffle has grown in symbiosis with and age-old tree such as an oak then its qualities are sure to be rich and very much sought after.
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